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38 answers · 8 topics

The awkward questions, answered.

Short payments, lost phones, declined cards, wrong networks: the questions people actually ask, answered plainly and filed by topic.

01 Topic

Getting in

Signing up, confirming your email, and the authenticator app every account carries.

What does it take to open an account?

Three things: an inbox you can open, a password of ten characters or more, and a phone running an authenticator (Google’s, Microsoft’s, 1Password and Aegis are all fine). The account itself costs nothing. Money only changes hands when you order a card.

Why can’t I skip the authenticator step?

Because a password on its own is the easiest thing on the internet to steal, and your account holds cards with real money on them. Every sign-in asks for the six-digit code your authenticator shows at that moment. There is no setting that turns it off, and we won’t turn it off for you either.

The confirmation email hasn’t arrived.

Look in spam and in any “promotions” tab first. Still missing? Sign in and press Send a fresh link on the waiting screen; each new link cancels the one before it. If a few minutes pass with nothing, write to [email protected] from the address you signed up with.

My phone is gone, and my authenticator with it.

That is what the recovery codes are for. Use one in place of the six-digit code (each works a single time), then pair your new phone in Settings and print a fresh set. Lost the codes as well? Open a ticket or email us. We confirm the account is yours before resetting anything, and we take our time over that on purpose.

Can the email on my account be changed?

Yes, by support, after we have checked the request really comes from you. Your email is how we reach you about orders and security, so we treat a change of address like a change of locks.

There’s a sign-in I don’t recognize.

Change your password in Settings straight away; doing so signs out every other device. Then make new recovery codes and open a ticket so we can look at the account together. We email you whenever a device we haven’t seen before signs in, which is probably how you noticed.

02 Topic

The order

From the brief to a working card: what happens, who does it, and how long it takes.

How does an order actually work?

Three steps in the app. The brief: choose the amount. The route: choose how you will pay. The transfer: pay, then confirm. Once you leave the first step our server prices the order and holds that price for thirty minutes. After you pay, a person checks the payment and issues the card. Most cards are issued within a few hours of the payment being confirmed.

What are the smallest and largest cards?

Each card holds between $10.00 and $5,000.00. Need more than the top figure? Order a second card. Every card carries its own flat fee, so a single card is usually cheaper than two.

Whose name goes on the card?

When the order form shows the optional “Name on the card” field, whatever you type there. Leave it blank and we use the name on your account.

Why does a human look at my payment?

So that no card ever exists unless its payment really arrived, in full, on the right network. A script would be quicker. It would also issue cards against payments that never landed, which is how other sellers end up freezing cards later.

What gets an order turned down?

A payment we can’t match to the order, an amount or network that’s wrong, or an order that would break our terms. You always get the reason, both in the app and by email, and the order page lets you open a ticket about it in one click.

03 Topic

Paying for it

Two routes for the money, and the small details that make a transfer easy to match.

What are my options for paying?

The route step lists whatever is open today. Usually that means a manual transfer to an address we show you, followed by its transaction ID, and a hosted checkout run by a payment provider, where you choose the coin on their page and the confirmation reaches us by itself.

A TXID? What is that, and where is mine?

The transaction ID (some wallets call it the hash) is the public reference for your transfer on the blockchain. After you send, your wallet or exchange shows it in the transfer’s details. Copy all of it. Each TXID belongs to one order, once.

My exchange charges a withdrawal fee. How much do I send?

Enough that the full total lands. When an exchange deducts its withdrawal charge from the sum it sends, top the transfer up by that charge. A payment that arrives short holds up the order while we work out the gap with you.

I picked the wrong network.

Open a ticket with the transaction ID right away. What we can do depends on whether the money actually reached an address we control. Funds sent over a network our address doesn’t use may be gone for good, which is why the transfer step names the network in large letters.

I paid on the checkout page, yet the order still says “Waiting on payment”.

Blockchains confirm transfers in rounds, and that takes minutes rather than seconds. Wait a little, then open the order: where the provider allows it, an Ask the provider again button appears. Nothing moving after that? Open a ticket from the order and we will chase the provider ourselves.

Should I upload a screenshot of the transfer?

You can, on the last step of a manual transfer, and it helps us find unusual payments faster. It is optional, kept private, and only our team can open it. The TXID is what we actually check against the blockchain.

What happens to a checkout I never paid?

It stays open on the order page so you can try again. After 48 hours without payment the order cancels itself. Nothing was charged, and you can start a new one whenever you like.

04 Topic

The price

Two numbers, held while you pay. What the price covers, and what it never includes.

What will a card cost me?

The amount you put on it, plus a flat $5.00 and 15% of that amount. That is the entire price list. The fees page works out any amount for you.

Do you charge anything monthly, or for leaving a card alone?

No monthly fee, no inactivity fee, and no charge for looking at your own card or writing to support.

If I ask for a refund, do the fees come back too?

No. The two fees pay for issuing and handling the card, and that work is done the moment the card exists. A refund covers balance still on the card, under the refund policy. That is exactly why we show the fees before you pay.

What if your fees change halfway through my order?

Nothing changes for you. When you leave the first step, the server prices your order and holds that price for thirty minutes. A fee change during that window doesn’t touch your order.

05 Topic

Your card

Seeing the details, spending the balance, and what frozen or declined really means.

Where do I see the full card number?

Under Cards in the app. Type the six digits your authenticator shows right now and the card turns over, revealing the number, expiry date and security code for sixty seconds. Then it covers itself again. Every reveal is logged.

Which shops will take the card?

Online merchants that accept the card’s network, though the final word is theirs: some decline virtual cards as a matter of policy. So we can’t promise that every shop accepts every card, and we would rather say so here than after you have paid.

A payment was declined. Where do I start?

Check three things: the balance covers the price including any currency conversion, the billing name and address match the card’s details, and the expiry date and security code were typed correctly. Still failing? Open a ticket that says which shop it was and roughly when you tried.

Can I top up a card I already have?

Not at the moment. Each card keeps the amount it was ordered with. If you need more to spend, order another card.

My card says “Frozen”. What does that mean?

A frozen card declines payments and won’t show its details. We freeze a card when something needs checking, such as a suspected leak of its number. Open a ticket and we will tell you what happens next.

06 Topic

Money back

Which balances come back, how much of them, and how the payout travels.

When does a card balance come back to me?

In two cases. The card was never used: you get the whole balance. The card was used and still holds $500.00 or more: you get the balance minus 10%, and the card closes. Fees stay with us either way. The details are in the refund policy.

Where do I ask for a refund?

Open Refunds in the app and pick the card. Before you send anything, you see the exact figure the policy allows. Add a sentence on why, then the payout network and wallet address, and a person takes it from there.

How does the refund reach me?

As a transfer to the address and network you gave us. Check both twice: crypto sent to a wrong address usually can’t be recovered. Once it has left, we email you its transaction ID.

Why is a small leftover balance not refundable?

Processing a refund costs the same whether it returns five dollars or five hundred, so used cards come back only with $500.00 or more on them. Anything smaller stays on the card and is still yours to spend.

07 Topic

Staying safe

How the account is protected, and the requests we will never make.

Would LegitVCC ever ask for my password or codes?

Never: not by email, chat, phone or carrier pigeon. Anyone asking for your password, a sign-in code or a recovery code is not us. Don’t share them, and do forward us the message.

How do you store my card details?

Encrypted. They are decrypted only when you ask to see them with a current authenticator code, and every reveal goes in a log. Our own staff need their own two-step sign-in just to reach the system.

What happens to my personal data?

We use it to run your account and orders, keep them secure and meet our legal duties. No advertising trackers, and no selling it on. The privacy notice lists every detail.

An email that looks like yours wants me to pay a fee.

Don’t pay it, and don’t click anything in it. We never charge outside the order flow in the app, and there is no such thing as a “verification” or “unlock” fee here. Forward it to [email protected] so we can warn other people.

08 Topic

Talking to us

Tickets, email and Telegram: where to write, and what to put in the message.

What’s the quickest way to a human?

Customers: a ticket from inside the app, which keeps your order attached. Everyone else: email [email protected]. Short questions also work on our Telegram handle. A person reads all of it.

What should my message include?

The reference of the order or refund (they start with LGT- or RFN-), what you expected, what happened instead, and roughly when. Leave out full card numbers, security codes and sign-in codes; we never need them.

Can I phone you?

No, and that is deliberate. Written support lets us look properly at your account and leaves a record for both of us. It also makes fake “support calls” easy to spot: if someone rings claiming to be us, it isn’t us.

Still stuck? Ask a human.

Customers are quickest through a ticket in the app, which carries the order along with it. Everyone else is welcome by email.